An hour north of Houston sits one of the biggest man-made lakes in Texas, and it only exists because the 1950s brought a seven-year drought that left the state desperate for water. Lake Conroe, fed by the San Jacinto River, was built as a backup reservoir for Houston and fast-growing Montgomery County. The sun takes its cut — up to 180 million gallons evaporate off the surface every day — but what's left is a 22,000-acre lake with 157 miles of shoreline that has become a proper holiday spot in its own right.

That shoreline has seen a building boom in recent years, with waterfront developments, upscale golf courses and tennis courts springing up around the Houston metro's northern edge. The flip side: come summer, the water gets crowded, and the lake has a reputation as one of Texas' most dangerous thanks to a mix of inexperienced and occasionally drunk boat operators sharing space with swimmers. Keep your wits about you and it's a very fun place to spend a weekend.

Getting on the water is the whole point. The Southern Empress runs sunset dinner cruises if you'd rather let someone else steer, while rental outfits cover everything from kayaks and jet skis to pontoons and party barges for larger groups. The marinas here go beyond boat slips — Waterpoint Marina on the southern shore anchors a mixed-use complex with boutiques, shops and a run of restaurants covering Tex-Mex to Asian fusion, plus picnic areas and even a swimming pool.

Swimming comes with one honest caveat: alligators live here. If that gives you pause, head for the designated beaches instead. Scott's Ridge Swim Area has a sandy beach with park facilities, Lake Conroe Beach Park offers the lake's largest beach plus cabana and pavilion rentals, and quieter Evan's Cove on the western shore suits anyone after solitude. Ayer's Island, at the southern end, is where boaters gather to swim off the boat.

Logistics are easy. George Bush Intercontinental Airport is about 45 minutes away, and the town of Conroe itself — one of the fastest-growing cities in America — has a lively downtown, parks and plenty of places to stay. On the water, the Margaritaville Lake Resort pairs a spa and pools with a golf course, which is welcome relief in the Texas heat. Time your trip for April if you want festival season, or a major summer holiday if you'd like free entertainment at the boat ramps, where locals swear the spectacle of once-a-year boaters wresting trailers into the water rivals anything on the lake itself.