Milos doesn't get the direct international flights of Santorini or Mykonos, and that's precisely part of its appeal. This small Cycladic island is a favourite among Greek holidaymakers, and reaching it is simple enough: a fast ferry from Mykonos or Santorini, or a short connecting flight via Athens.

The island's signature sight is Sarakiniko Beach in the north, where gleaming white volcanic rock formations replace the usual sand. It's spectacular for a swim, but come prepared — the white rocks bounce UV light around in summer, so sunburn comes fast, and there are virtually no facilities on site. Pack water, snacks and shade. A taxi or hire car from the ferry port town of Adamantas takes under ten minutes.

Milos's south coast is best seen from the water. Boat tours to Kleftiko Bay — a maze of coves mostly unreachable on foot — and the open-air Cave of Sykia on the west coast run as full-day trips with a skipper, swimming stops and a Greek lunch onboard, and cost noticeably less than equivalent tours on Mykonos or Santorini. Private boats take up to eight people, but summer availability is tight, so book before you arrive. Experienced hikers can reach Sykia on foot via a demanding mountain path, though the boat is the sensible choice for most.

Away from the beaches, Plaka, the island's old inland capital, rewards an hour or two of wandering. Visit the Panagia Korfiatissa church and the Venetian Castle for a dose of the island's layered history, then eat well: Vlahos does standout souvlaki and grilled meats at lunch, while Kyra Milos serves alfresco dinners at sunset.

The smaller fishing hamlets are where Milos gets properly charming. Mandrakia — roughly thirty buildings and a centuries-old harbour — sits close to Sarakiniko and is a great sunset stop; the family-run taverna Medusa Milos is known for its sea bass. Nearby Firopotamos has a whitewashed church, a tiny beach and a bar for a frappe-and-swim afternoon. Klima, close to the island's ancient theatre, is a photogenic row of shorefront fishermen's houses — grab grilled shrimp at Astakas Café, or drive two minutes uphill to Barriello for roasted lamb with big views.

Back in Adamantas, the busiest town on the island, O! Hamos! is a beloved family taverna with handwritten menus and courtyard seating — visitors famously linger for hours. There's also the small Milos Mining Museum for those curious about the island's industrial past, and Akri Bar for late-night cocktails (the Night Cucumber comes recommended).

Other swimming options worth knowing: Papafragas on the north coast pairs a very small beach with striking sea caves and cliffs — better for a coastal stroll than a beach day. For actual lounging space, head to Pollonia or, best of all, Agia Kiriaki on the quieter south coast. Thrill-seekers can try secluded Tsigrado Beach, though be warned the access involves a rickety wooden ladder.

For somewhere to stay, the island now has some lovely small luxury options — Thalassitra Private Pool Suites and Solus Suites near Adamantas, and Cave Suites Milos, a short hop from both the port and Sarakiniko.

Milos suits travellers who want the Cyclades' postcard scenery without the crowds and prices of its famous neighbours — bring a car, book boats early, and take it slow.