A stone market cross built in 1764 stands at the heart of Alston, a Cumbrian town perched roughly 1,000 feet above sea level — higher than any other market town in England. That elevation buys it clean Pennine air, hilltop views, and a setting ringed by moors and fells, yet it remains one of the region's quieter corners, squeezed between the Lake District and Newcastle.

The town itself is a compact grid of Georgian houses and Victorian mansions built around the old market district, where the Grade II-listed market cross still anchors the square. Shopping is a genuine draw: Swan's Head trades in copper and bronze kitchenware, retro clothing and antiques, Mellow Yellow stocks handmade crafts and homeware, and the Hi-Pennine Outdoor Shop will kit you out with boots and gear if the surrounding trails have tempted you into a longer walk.

Walkers are the real target audience here. Alston sits on the Pennine Way, England's first National Trail at 270 miles long. The 17-mile stretch from Alston to Greenhead climbs over 1,870 feet through heather moorland and rolling hills — a proper, multi-hour undertaking for serious hikers. Easier options abound: the six-mile Alston to Epiacum Fort Circular runs through the North Pennines National Landscape, a UNESCO Global Geopark, passing the remains of Whitley Castle, a Roman fort raised in the second century alongside Hadrian's Wall and once the tallest of its kind. For a gentle couple of hours, follow a two-mile stretch of the South Tyne Trail — ride the seasonal South Tynedale Railway to Kirkhaugh and walk back — or, on a bike, push seven miles north to the 1852 Lambley Viaduct.

Refuelling is straightforward. Walter's Café & Bar does generous comfort food and coffee, plus a loft-style room in an old building if you want to stay central. Saddlers Bakery covers the lighter end with soups, sandwiches, scones and fresh loaves.

Getting there is simple enough: Newcastle International Airport is about an hour east by car, Keswick roughly an hour west through Cumbrian countryside, with bus, rail and taxi combinations possible. If you have spare days, Windermere — England's largest lake — is under two hours south, and Kielder Forest's trails and lakes lie about 50 miles north.

Alston suits travellers who like their market towns walkable and their walks unpolished: moorland rather than manicured lakesides, a bakery lunch rather than a bistro tasting menu. It also works well as a low-key base between two heavyweights — the Lake District on one side and Hadrian's Wall country on the other — without the crowds either attracts.