Norway's capital gets all the attention, but hop a train for half an hour and you'll land in Drammen — a riverside port city that has quietly reinvented itself and remains refreshingly free of tourist crowds. Set where the Drammen River meets the Drammensfjord, it's home to around 104,000 people and a good dose of everyday Norwegian life.

Drammen's turnaround is a fairly recent story. For decades the river ran grey with industrial pollution; a major cleanup sparked the city's transformation, celebrated every year at the Elvefestivalen (River Festival). Today the waterfront is the main draw — stroll the Elvepromenaden promenade, cross the sculptural Ypsilon Bridge to Drammen Park with its fountain and summer flower beds, and take in Bragernes Square, the largest city square in Norway. The city's green spaces were good enough to win a Green Park of the Year award in 2014.

Culture-wise, the Drammen Museum of Art and Cultural History traces the city's rise from its 13th-century industrial roots, with Norwegian textiles, Baroque silver and folk art on display. Nearby Marienlyst Manor holds a notable collection of Nøstetangen glass. Food and drink lean local: Café Bragernes serves a well-loved fish soup (fiskesuppe) packed with fresh catch, potatoes and creamy broth, and beer fans can tour Aass Brewery — Norway's oldest, pouring since the mid-19th century.

The real surprise is the outdoors. Ten minutes from the centre, Kjøsterudjuvet is a 10,000-year-old gorge with rock walls nearly 200 feet high; the route involves scrambling over rocks and through streams, and water levels can spike after rain, so check the forecast first. Closer to town, Spiraltoppen offers sweeping views over the city — reach it by hiking the trails or driving up a glow-lit spiral tunnel.

For travellers, Drammen works two ways: as an easy day trip from Oslo (roughly 30 minutes by public transport, 35-40 by car) or as a calmer base for a few days, with lower prices and zero queues. It suits anyone who wants Norwegian culture, riverside walks and real hikes without the capital's crowds or costs.