Everyone wants a restaurant that knows them. A bartender who starts your drink before you sit down, a waiter who flags a dish you'll love, a host who actually seems pleased you showed up. Condé Nast Traveller UK asked hospitality insiders how diners earn that status, and the answers are refreshingly unglamorous: it has almost nothing to do with how much you spend or how often you visit.

The biggest mistake is announcing your intentions. Nobody needs to hear "you'll be seeing a lot of me" halfway through a second negroni. Regular status builds the way friendships do — gradually, through consistency and trust. Force it, and you'll be remembered for the wrong reasons.

What actually works is attention. Learn the names of the people who serve you and use them naturally, not as a shortcut to imagined VIP treatment. Front-of-house staff can spot performative charm instantly, usually somewhere between the third "my friend" and an over-firm handshake. And be kind across the whole team, not just whoever controls the reservations — the runners, bartenders and junior waiters holding service together are often the ones who remember you most fondly.

Reading the room matters too. Good regulars know when a dining room is slammed and when there's time for a chat. They don't turn up twenty minutes late on a fully booked Friday demanding their favourite table. They order with curiosity — asking what the kitchen is excited about goes down far better than interrogating every sauce — and they tip generously without turning it into theatre. There's a specific kind of guest who assumes loyalty buys entitlement, loudly invoking how often they visit before requesting seventeen modifications to a dish. The irony, veterans note, is that the people who genuinely receive thoughtful extras rarely ask for them.

There's also an art to ending the evening. Lingering over a bottle of wine is one thing; holding the room hostage while exhausted staff eye the door is another. The guests restaurants truly love are the ones who make the atmosphere better just by being in it — easy with their companions, generous with laughter, aware that a good service is a collaboration between kitchen, floor and diners.

The payoff isn't free Champagne or secret off-menu whispers, though occasionally it might be. Mostly it's quieter: a warm greeting, a place that feels familiar, the sense that somewhere in a city of algorithms and reminder emails, actual humans are glad you came. Several of the people quoted in the piece — including restaurateurs like Jeremy King and Martin Kuczmarski of The Dover — build their whole approach around this idea, down to details like handwritten notes left at tables when the owner can't stop by.

For travellers, it's a genuinely useful skill. Whether you're on a city break or a long stay, finding one place you can return to twice and being remembered the second time is often the best souvenir a trip produces.