Zurich has a striking new table — inside one of its oldest walls. Marküs, which opened in early September, is the latest project from chef Markus Stöckle, a Bavarian who spent time in the kitchen of Heston Blumenthal's The Fat Duck and most recently ran Rosi, a much-loved reimagining of the Bavarian inn that has since closed. His new dining room sits in a building dating to 1260, making it one of the oldest surviving structures in the city.
The food is built around provenance. There's a single tasting menu — a vegetarian version is available — that leans on local and sustainable suppliers. Expect an interpretation of Älpler Makkaronen, the Swiss comfort classic, fish pulled straight from Lake Zurich, and sansho peppers grown around the city. Vegetables come from nearby farms that grow crops exclusively for the restaurant. Stöckle's years in Japan show up too, filtered through Switzerland: the tofu is made by tofu master Yumemi Ito using Swiss soybeans. There's also a serious in-house fermentation and pickling program developed with ETH Zurich, the city's public university.
None of it is meant to feel stiff. Stöckle has been upfront that the restaurant will be characterful and fun — a deliberate counter to the earnestness that can come with provenance-obsessed tasting menus.
The setting deserves as much attention as the plate. Italian design studio Dragó restored period features that had been hidden away over the building's long life. Downstairs, walls are finished in crimson-red lacquer; upstairs, original 13th-century wood panels survive in a private dining room available for exclusive use. Tables are set with crisp white linens and a single candle, and the tableware comes from Swiss ceramicist Lilly Haas — pure-white porcelain, handmade and individually numbered.
Stöckle puts it plainly: cooking in the location is an honour, and he sees himself as the caretaker of a 700-year-old story of hospitality.
Why it matters for travellers: Zurich has quietly built one of Europe's more interesting fine-dining scenes, and Marküs adds a rare combination — an internationally trained chef, hyper-local sourcing, and a dining room inside genuine medieval fabric. If you're planning a city break that includes one big dinner, this is a candidate worth booking early, especially if you want the upstairs private room for a group.
