About 80 miles southwest of Calgary, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park delivers much of what draws people to Banff — turquoise lakes, jagged peaks, dense pine forest — without the tour buses and hotel queues. It sits in Kananaskis Country on the eastern edge of Alberta's Rockies and covers 117 square miles, making it one of the largest provincial parks in the province. It's younger than its famous neighbour too: established in 1977 and renamed in 1986, compared with Banff's 1885 founding as Canada's first national park.

The difference is in the feel. Banff funnels visitors toward famous landmarks, spas and restaurants; Peter Lougheed is wilder and built around backcountry hiking and camping, with no single headline attraction pulling big crowds. What it does have is 87 named peaks — Mount Joffre tops out at 11,263 feet — and the Upper and Lower Kananaskis lakes, whose bright blue water is worth the trip alone.

Hiking options suit nearly everyone. The High Rockies Trail, part of the Trans Canada Trail system, crosses the 239-foot Blackshale Suspension Bridge through conifer forest on the lower slopes. The 9.9-mile Upper Kananaskis Lake Trail hugs the shoreline past waterfalls and the Palliser rockslide, with real chances of spotting grizzlies, black bears, elk or moose. A short detour leads to Rawson Lake, an alpine reward at the end of a forest climb. There are also wheelchair-friendly routes like the Rockwall Interpretive Trail, horse riding on the Elbow Lake Trail, and snowshoeing or cross-country skiing in winter. Many trails close seasonally or briefly for wildlife activity, so check status before setting out.

Practically, it's an easy addition to a Calgary or Banff itinerary. Enter via Highway 40 south of the Trans-Canada; the main access brings you to the Discovery Center — worth a look for its interactive displays and First Nations artwork — plus campgrounds and trailheads. You'll need a Kananaskis Conservation Pass (roughly $15 per vehicle per day, $90 annually), and the first Wednesday of each month is free. Buy online ahead of time; mobile reception is patchy. The Boulton Creek Trading Post covers basic groceries and camping supplies.

Thirteen campgrounds range from frontcountry reservable sites to first-come backcountry pitches, and the William Watson Lodge provides accessible accommodation for seniors and people with disabilities. On the water, the two Kananaskis lakes allow boating, kayaking and canoeing — rent from Kananaskis Outfitters if you don't have your own, and note that personal craft must be cleaned to Alberta's invasive-species standards. Fishing rules differ by lake, so check the provincial site.

For travellers who love Banff's scenery but not its crowds, or anyone road-tripping through the Rockies wanting a wilderness day or two, this park is an easy sell: same postcard views, far less company.