Spain's chic northern coastal city of San Sebastian has just given British director Mike Leigh one more reason to visit: his social drama "Tender Loving Care" took the Golden Shell for best film at the city's annual festival, widely seen as one of Europe's most important cinema events.
The award carries extra weight. Leigh, who is 83, has said he is dealing with a medical condition affecting his muscles and that this is probably his final film. He accepted the prize by video message, telling the audience it was a great honour and apologising for not being there in person. The film, which follows social workers supporting vulnerable people, also picked up a share of the best screenplay award, and its lead actress Kate O'Flynn shared the Silver Shell for best performance.
It adds a notable line to Leigh's trophy cabinet. He previously won the top prize at Cannes in 1996 for "Secrets and Lies" and at Venice in 2004 for "Vera Drake" — two of the biggest honours in European cinema. The festival's best director award went to Swedish filmmaker Amanda Kernell for "Brace Your Heart".
For travellers, the story is as much about the setting as the film. The San Sebastian International Film Festival, held each September, transforms this Basque resort into a gathering point for directors, actors and cinephiles, with screenings spread across venues including the landmark Kursaal conference centre on the waterfront. Even outside festival season, the city trades on its screen pedigree, and film-location walks have become part of the visitor experience.
San Sebastian works well as a short break beyond the red carpet. La Concha beach curves around a sheltered bay that's often ranked among Europe's best city beaches, the old town (the Parte Vieja) is packed with pintxos bars, and the food scene ranges from humble counters to one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars anywhere in the world. Add hilltop viewpoints at Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull, and you have a compact city that punches well above its size.
For film fans, September is the month to go: you can queue for festival screenings alongside locals, spot talent on the promenade, and soak up an atmosphere that few other Spanish cities offer. For everyone else, late spring or early autumn delivers good weather without the festival crowds.
