Day 67 of a thru-hike along the Wales Coast Path turned out to be a lesson in humility, tide charts and pub-camp politics. The hiker behind The Trek's day-by-day diary set out from Kenfig National Nature Reserve, threading between wind-twisted trees before hitting the open cliffs and beaches of the Glamorgan coast — all under a sky that couldn't decide whether to rain or shine, and a wind strong enough to qualify as emotional damage.
The day's big logistical headache came where the Ogmore River meets the sea at the end of Merthyr Mawr beach. The walker had read the guidebook as promising stepping stones across the river mouth around low tide, which would spare them a four-mile inland detour. Arriving three hours before low tide, they waited — then discovered via a hasty search that the famous stepping stones sit elsewhere on the river, and this stretch is only fordable at low tide. With the current running fast and the depth unreadable, the sensible call was the long way round. Silver lining: the diversion turned out to be scenic and quick, aside from a slog through ankle-deep sand.
Then came the campsite saga. The plan was a pub with camping in its back garden near Porthcawl — but staff were busy erecting a big stage and sound system for a festival the next day. Bar staff said pitching was fine, just not in the work zone. A young man disagreed, then an older one followed the hiker around the field vetoing every spot they chose. Exhausted, hungry and facing a night of forecast gales, the hiker froze mid-field — and then genuinely broke down in tears. The plot twist: a kind woman with a hug turned out to be the pub's owner, who told them to camp wherever felt safest. That spot was, of course, the original one. A rainbow over the field closed out the day.
It's a small story, but a very useful one for anyone eyeing the Wales Coast Path. First, tide timing matters more than a skim of the guidebook suggests — river crossings on this route are real, and assumptions can cost you hours. Second, informal pub camping is a genuine joy of walking in Wales, but if an event is on, expect chaos over pitches; confirming with the owner directly is smarter than taking the first answer. Third, the weather is a character in its own right — relentless coastal wind can wear down even experienced long-distance walkers, and this hiker's takeaway was to swap tent nights for bunkhouse beds while the forecasts stayed brutal.
For travellers, the stretch between Kenfig and Ogmore-by-Sea delivers exactly what makes this 870-mile path special: nature reserves, broad sandy beaches, cliff walking and villages with pubs that'll let you sleep out back. Just check the tide tables, double-check the map, and be nice to whoever owns the field.
Story via The Trek.
