Some drives treat the road as an obstacle between you and your booking. The trip to Rhodes, a village in the Eastern Cape Highlands near the Lesotho border, is the opposite — the last stretch is untarred, unhurried and arguably better than the destination.
Barkly East is the practical gateway. From there, the R396 runs roughly 60km to Rhodes, mostly on gravel, climbing through grass-covered mountains, valleys and streams. There are few signposted attractions along the way; the scenery itself is the draw, and it rewards anyone willing to pull over when a view demands it. Two practical rules: fill the tank in Barkly East (there are no fuel stations in Rhodes or at nearby Tiffindell) and drive in daylight, because weather changes fast at altitude and gravel is not to be rushed.
Rhodes itself sits at about 1,820m beneath the southern Drakensberg. Laid out on the farm Tintern and proclaimed in 1891, it was declared a conservation area in 1997, which is why its historic streets and old buildings still feel intact. There is no big-ticket sightseeing here — the appeal is a slow lunch, a stoep, and mountains that change colour through the afternoon.
For drivers, the headline act is Naudé's Nek Pass, linking Rhodes and Maclear via the R396. At around 33km and roughly 2,590m above sea level, it ranks among South Africa's highest mountain passes, and in winter the high country can look almost alpine under snow. You don't need to drive the whole thing — a section plus a safe stop is enough. It's remote, so check conditions locally, especially after rain or in winter, and make sure your vehicle is up to it.
If you'd rather be out of the car, the surrounding highlands cover that too: hiking, mountain biking, birding, horse riding and fly-fishing, with the Wild Trout Association managing more than 200km of running water — permits are available for designated beats. Local operators can also arrange visits to rock-art sites.
Where to stay: Walkerbouts Inn overlooks the village from the site of Tintern's original farmhouse and has run as an inn since the 1990s — the classic Rhodes choice. Kinmel Guest Farm & Lodge, about 1.5km out of town, offers more space with trails and fishing nearby. Either way, pack layers; evenings at this altitude get properly cold.
Who is this for? Couples after an understated weekend, anglers, mountain-bikers, and anyone who wants a few days where almost nothing competes for attention. It's a long, slow trip with real logistics — but that's the point. Between Barkly East and Rhodes, the journey quietly becomes the destination.
Story credit: Getaway South Africa.