Edinburgh Castle gets the crowds, but ten minutes' understanding of the city's map reveals a second fortress worth your time. Craigmillar Castle sits on the southeastern edge of the city, and unlike its famous hilltop sibling, you can usually explore it without queuing.
The core of Craigmillar is a late-14th-century tower house, later wrapped in courtyard walls, a chapel, gardens and extra chambers. It survived well precisely because it was abandoned: the last family left in the 18th century, and the castle slipped into romantic ruin, beloved by painters and poets. That neglect left the medieval fabric largely untouched.
Its claim to fame is a royal one. Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here in 1566 as a guest of Sir Simon Preston — who, in an awkward twist of loyalty, became her jailer the following year. The castle's other curiosities include keyhole-shaped gunholes in the 15th-century courtyard walls and a fishpond dug in the shape of a giant letter P, honouring the Preston family.
Inside, the tower rises over 50 feet with walls nearly 10 feet thick. The Great Hall on the first floor keeps its stone fireplace, and narrow spiral staircases wind up through the chambers — atmospheric enough that visitors compare it to Hogwarts. Climb to the battlements and you get a genuinely great view: back across the city to Edinburgh Castle and the crag of Arthur's Seat. Outside, crumbling corner towers frame the courtyards, traces of 16th-century formal gardens remain, and the surrounding parkland has woodland trails and grassy walks dotted with trees planted in the 1800s.
It's an easy half-day trip. Buses run from St. Andrew Square in the city centre, taking about 45 minutes. Admission is modest and cheaper if you book online, and once you're in, you're free to wander on your own — groups can bring their own guide if they prefer. Historic Environment Scotland also runs occasional events on site; the 2026 programme includes a Halloween day with animal encounters.
Craigmillar suits travellers who've already ticked off the headliners, families who want a castle kids can clamber around without crowds, and anyone chasing that Scotland-in-movie-form feeling. Pair it with Arthur's Seat for a solid day of old stone and good views.
